“Like any double exposure you want to create some dark areas so using flowers that have darker tints usually work best for me. I usually shoot the flowers first and try to blow out the background as much as possible which is insanely difficult to meter. Too shadowy on the flower and you lose the details and too exposed and you lose wave features. The other part that you have to consider is the actual wave. When I shoot in the water I use a fisheye so I’m inside the tubing part of the wave—the roundness creates shadows around the edges on the flowers and therefore you see more flower details. I used to use funky films so I could cross-process them and get weird colors, but now I want true colors so I’m sticking to Velvia 100 and pushing it a stop.”